Skip the Tourists for a Quiet Escape in Aichi Prefecture

As a longtime resident of Japan, the great rush of inbound visitors creates complex feelings. On one hand, it has helped bring life back to certain areas of the country that were languishing, been instrumental in the increase in food diversity for those with allergies or moral/religious dietary restrictions and brought a new stream of revenue in a country with a stagnating GDP. On the other hand, wherever one goes, there are now far more people than before (with varying degrees of manners), and just like all other locals, I find that this can become immensely tiresome.

Finding an escape can be challenging, yet scattered throughout are pockets of that nostalgic “old Japan” that obnoxious multi-decade residents like us remember. One such hideaway is Kakujoro, a ryokan inn on the Atsumi Peninsula in Aichi Prefecture.

What makes Kakujoro different from a typical ryokan experience?

Kakujoro offers an escape to a beautiful, historical setting while eliminating the common pain points of a traditional ryokan. The inn successfully marries the magic of the past with thoughtful, modern updates, including supremely comfortable bedding and a forward-thinking approach to dining and service.

This may be controversial, but I am not usually a fan of ryokan; futon are not my friends, the omotenashi can feel a bit restrictive and more often than not, a request for a vegan meal turns into a stressful debacle. But this was not the case at Kakujoro or its Taisho Roman (Japanese Romanticism) annex, Izutsuro.

From the exterior, it seems like a historical but pretty normal-looking ryokan. The main building dates back to 1929, and is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property. But once you step inside, you can see how it has been tastefully updated, while still keeping the magic of the past alive.

Built around a courtyard garden, which was being patrolled by the inn’s sweet, elderly kitty, the floorboards are smoothed by a century of guests and daily cleaning are elevated with an elegant and moodily painted Western-style dining room.

How comfortable are the rooms and bedding at Kakujoro?

Kakujoro offers exceptionally comfortable sleeping arrangements, addressing the common complaint of thin futons by providing thick, quality mattresses in all rooms. I opted to stay in a maisonette-style room that banished all my worries of sleeping on a paper-thin futon and bean-filled pillows.

Here are the room features I enjoyed:

• Maisonette-style: Features a private garden framed by full-height windows.
• Loft Bedroom: Accessible by a charming twisty staircase.
• Mattress Comfort: The loft features a cushy Magniflex mattress.
• Traditional Option: More traditional tatami-style rooms are available for the full experience, although all rooms offer thick mattresses (a major boon in my opinion).

After spending several hours relaxing, reading, staring out at the garden and soaking in the onsen, it was time for dinner.

Is Kakujoro Ryokan vegan and allergy-friendly?

Yes, Kakujoro Ryokan is highly vegan and allergy-friendly. The inn’s owner is proactively working to create excellent options for visitors with dietary restrictions.

The Atsumi Peninsula is known for its fresh fish, so I usually have a hard time negotiating a vegan-friendly meal in this region—but not this time! Over my two-day stay, each meal was entirely different and featured fresh produce from Tahara, which is a major agricultural region.

What are the staff and service like?

Kakujoro’s top-class, Japanese-style hospitality is delivered by a friendly, international team, which eliminates the typical stiffness from the service. This is one of the unexpected pleasures of the stay.

In an industry that is usually quite old-fashioned, it is a pleasure to see a ryokan taking a forward-thinking and open approach. I learned that several of the international staff members are in management positions and have relocated to Tahara with their families.

What attractions are there near Tahara?

Tahara offers a quiet, nostalgic experience of Japan, reminiscent of small coastal towns. Driving around the area felt like a trip back in time.

Key activities and sights include:

• Beaches and Surfing: The beaches and cape are a quick drive away and are a favorite spot for surfers. The city hosts a number of surfing competitions.
• Seasonal Produce: During the summer, you can stop at the many melon farms in the area to pick or eat your fill of the incredibly sweet fruits, or you can wander through sunflower fields dotted with palm trees.
• Shrine Visits: There are regular ferries to Ise for those who want to check out Ise Jingu Shrine.

My weekend at Kakujoro was the quiet, unrushed and uncrowded experience that used to be common when I first set foot in Japan in the early 2000s. It was a nice escape from Tokyo’s crush and bright lights.

FAQ

How do I get to Kakujoro Ryokan?

The inn is located on the Atsumi Peninsula and is most easily accessed by car, as it is a bit off the beaten path.

• It is about a 1-hour drive from Toyohashi Station, two hours from Nagoya and 80 minutes from Ghibli Park.

Does Kakujoro use traditional futon or Western-style beds?

Kakujoro Ryokan prioritizes guest comfort by offering thick, quality mattresses in all rooms, moving away from the common thin futon experience. I was particularly pleased with the cushy Magniflex mattress in the loft room. Traditional tatami rooms are available, but they also include thick mattresses.

Is it difficult to get a vegan or allergy-friendly meal at the ryokan?

No, unlike many traditional inns, the owner is proactively working to create vegan and allergy-friendly options for visitors. Despite the Atsumi Peninsula being known for fresh fish, I found the dining experience stress-free, with each vegan meal featuring fresh local produce from the Tahara agricultural region.

What kind of atmosphere should I expect? Is it crowded?

Kakujoro offers a quiet, unrushed, and uncrowded experience, which is a nice escape from the crush of tourists and bright lights of cities like Tokyo. The atmosphere feels like a trip back to the “old Japan” that is now difficult to find.

Does the ryokan offer a public bath (onsen)?

Yes, Kakujoro offers an onsen where you can spend time relaxing and soaking.

Booking Information

If you’re interested in doing this experience yourself, check out the official website is available for booking and further information. You can also watch this Instagram Reel which showcases the atmosphere and experience of the ryokan.

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